This eclectic mix of surfing tales offers something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to hilarious anecdotes of what goes on among the breakers. There are stories of death and disaster as well as bravery and triumph. Bizarre and extreme occurrences share space with accounts of perfect breaks and beautiful beaches. Throughout, surfing's greatest figures appear--Laird Hamilton and Tom Curren, the late legend Andy Irons and the ironman of surfing, Kelly Slater--alongside the local heroes who never made the headlines. From the UK to the USA, Europe to Australia, these stories from surfing's greatest places and faces will delight everyone who loves the sport.
ALEX WADE is a former white-collar boxer, media lawyer and freelance journalist who lives and surfs in Cornwall. As well as running the Surf Nation blog, he regularly contributes to The Times, The Sunday Times, The Independent, The Guardian and other national newspapers. He covers diverse areas as a freelance journalist and has written columns for The Independent on Sunday, timesonline.co.uk and Flush magazine on boxing, legal life and poker. Alex has travelled the globe extensively. He has written about New York, Albania and Kazakhstan; Barbados, Ireland and Andalucia; Captain Cook country, Mexico and Francis Ford Coppola's retreats in Belize and Guatemala. Despite a restless life he thinks he's found paradise in West Penwith, Cornwall, where he lives with his wife Karen, an accomplished abstract artist, and their two sons.
Going to extremes / Tragic tales / When the big stuff bites / Gonzo interlude / contests and communities / worldwide waves / obsession / inspiration