"In a machine age, dressmaking is one of the last refuges of the human, the personal, the inimitable. In an epoch as sombre as ours, luxury must be defended inch by inch." -- Christian Dior, 1957The 1950s were the golden years of haute couture, indelibly captured by glamorous, wasp-waisted models wearing deeply feminine clothes. Yet the real women who wore the clothes adapted them to suit their own tastes, altered dresses to extend their life, and often could not bear to part with them long after they had outlived their use. This gorgeously illustrated book demonstrates why so many of these designs are still in existence and why we are fascinated by them fifty years later.Couture and Commerce investigates how and why 1950s couture fashion was important in its own day. The Paris couture houses survived after the Second World War due to the enthusiasm of the North American fashion press and commercial buyers. Alexandra Palmer traces the European couture trade with North America by following actual dresses as they moved from design house sketch, through the sample dress used in New York and Toronto fashion shows and as a template for copies and knock-offs, and finally to the consumer.Weaving together analysis of the clothes and interviews with those who traded, sold, redesigned, and wore couture, Alexandra Palmer vividly recreates the 1950s fashion world.
Alexandra Palmer is the Nora E. Vaughan Fashion Costume Curator at the Royal Ontario Museum and Adjunct Professor in the Graduate Programme in Art History at York University. She has lectured at the Parsons School of Design in New York and the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, and has been a consultant and curator for museums and galleries across North America.
Acknowledgments Introduction 1 The Paris Couture Structure 2 The Purchase of Haute Couture by Private Clients 3 Buying and Merchandising European Couture in Toronto 4 Couture, Fashion Shows, and Marketing 5 Alternative Sources of Imported Couture 6. The Value of Couture 7 The Couture Society Wardrobe As a Model of Taste Appendices A. Toronto Boutiques Selling Couture, Copies, and High-Priced Ready-to-Wear, 1945-63 B. Toronto Retail Prices of Second-Hand Couture, 1951-60 C. Toronto Retail Prices of European Couture and Boutique Imports, 1950, 1955, 1960 D. Toronto Retail Prices of Couture Copies and Adaptations, 1950, 1955, 1960 E. Canadian Client Records from the London Couture House of Lachasse, 1951-66 F. Biographies of People Discussed or Interviewed Notes Selected Bibliography Credits Index