Global Textile Encounters is a fascinating journey into three significant textiles and clothing cultures: China, India and Europe. The common thread is how fashions and traditions have travelled through space and time. In this richly illustrated anthology, with its 242 images, written both by textile researchers and practitioners as well as scholars from other fields across the globe, we hear of various types of encounters that bring to life a world of interactions and consequences as colourful as the textiles themselves. Among the 33 contributions we learn of an historian of ancient Roman textiles who has an intellectual epiphany in the streets of modern Iran; of 17th-century European Jesuits spreading the Gospel in Asia who attire themselves in the clothing suitable to their host countries; a visiting Siamese delegation that unwittingly creates fashion in 18th-century France;; how Chinese textile technology changed as a result of encountering textile patterns along the silk road; how political messages are conveyed in the sari; how Maharajahs inspired global pop culture; and the value we ascribe to old clothing. Recurrent themes include how religious praxis is informed by textile encounters; how travelling textiles enable patterns and symbols to be copied onto stone and metals; and textile motifs that acquire other symbolic meanings in their travels and encounters with different societies.
This sensibly priced, highly readable paperback, edited by three eminent textile scholars from Europe, China and India, is aimed at the interested general public and students. A Chinese version will be published by Donghua University Press in China.
Marie-Louise Nosch is Director of the Danish National Research Foundation's Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen and Research professor at the SAXO Institute, University of Copenhagen.
Acknowledgments & Dedication 1. Textiles and Elite Tastes between the Mediterranean, Iran and Asia at the end of Antiquity: Matthew P. Canepa 2. Palla, Pallu, Chador: Draped clothing in ancient and modern cultures: Mary Harlow 3. From Draupadi to Dido: The duties of dress in paintings inspired by the Mahabarata and the Aeneid: Linda Matheson 4. The Kaftan: An unusual textile encounter in the Scandinavian Late Iron Age: Ulla Mannering 5. Ancient Running Animals: Tablet-woven borders from China and Norway: Lise Raeder Knudsen 6. The Development of Pattern Weaving Technology through Textile Exchange along the Silk Road: Zhao Feng 7. The Earliest Cotton Ikat textiles from Nahal`Omer Israel 650-810 CE: Orit Shamir and Alisa Baginski 8. Northerners- Global Travellers in the Viking Age: Eva Andersson Strand 9. Unravelling Textile Mysteries with DNA analysis: LuiseOrsted Brandt 10. The Traceable Origin of Textiles: Karin Margarita Frei 11. The World of Textiles in Three Spheres: European Woollens, Indian Cottons and Chinese Silks, 1300-1700: Giorgio Riello 12. Chinese Silks in Mamluk Egypt: Helen Persson 13. Woven Mythology: The Textile Encounter of makara, senmurw and phoenix: Mariachiara Gasparini 14. Textile in Art: The influence of textile patterns on ornaments in the architecture of medieval Zirikhgeran: Zvezdana Dode 15. Coromandel Textiles: The Changing Face of Consumer Demand and Weavers'Responses 16th to 18th Century CE: Vijaya Ramaswamy 16. The Jesuit Dilemma in Asia: Being a naked ascetic or a court literate?: Selusi Ambrogio 17."The Colourful Qualities of Desire": Fashion, colours and industrial espionage: Vibe Maria Martens 18. Fashion Encounters: The"Siamoise" or the Impact of the Great Embassy on textile design in Paris in 1687: Corinne Thepaut-Cabasset 19.The Chinoiserie of the17th to 18th-century Soho Tapestry Makers: Mette Bruun 20. Exoticism in Fashion: From British North America to the United States: Madelyn Shaw 21. Textile symbolism and social mobility during the Colonial Period in Sydney Cove: Judith Cameron 22. The Impact of British Rule on the Dressing Sensibilities of Indian Aristocrats: A case study of the Maharaja of Baroda's dress: Toolika Gupta 23. Re-imagining the Dragon Robe: China Chic in Early Twentieth-Century European Fashion: Sarah Cheang 24. Sari and the Narrative of Nation in Twentieth-Century India: Aarti Kawlra 25. From Cool to Un-cool to Re-cool: Nehru and Mao tunics in the sixties and post-sixties West: Michael Langkjaer 26. Too Old: Clothes and value in Norwegian and Indian wardrobes: Ingun Grimstad Klepp, Lill Vramo and Kirsi Laitala 27. A`stinging' textile: Cultivation of Nettle fibre in Denmark and Asia: Ellen Bangsbo 28. Fist-braided Slings from Peru and Tibet: Lena Bjerregaard 29. Parsi Embroidery: An Intercultural Amalgam: Shernaz Cama 30. The Navjote Ceremony and the Sudreh Kushti: Lotika Varadarajan 31. Glocalization, Identity and T-shirt Communication: Karl-Heinz Pogner 32. India to Africa: Indian Madras and Kalabari Creativity: Joanne B. Eicher 33. Textile: The non-verbal language: Jasleen Dhamija