A cultural companion guide to Lisbon in the 'Cities of the Imagination' series. With a foreword by Jean-Pierre Faye Lisbon stands alone as the last city on the western edge of Europe: a capital and port rich with a history of exploration and discovery, a place immersed in romantic dreams of its maritime past. Shackled by the decades of Salazar's dictatorship, contemporary Lisbon has embraced modernity and the European ideal, its modern architecture and planning intent on blending with ancient monuments, clanking trams and the "old quarters". Lisbon today has a youthful energy, a zest for living reflected in an insatiable appetite for music and nightlife. Paul Buck explores this seven-hilled city with a particular emphasis on its literature and arts. Viewing the "white city" from angles high and low, from miradouros and alleyways, pursuing songs and saudade, he discovers the confidence of a cosmopolitan city full of the sounds and tastes of its former colonies. A city in a hurry to modernize, but one that can slow anybody to its relaxed pace.
The city of renovation and rejuvenation; the two great bridges over the Tagus; the impact of Expo 98; monumentalism old and new; expansion, innovation and urban ambition. The city of writing and music; Pessoa and Saramago; stories within stories and narratives of shifting time; fado, the music of Lisbon's melancholy; from classical guitar to ambient soundscapes. The city of visitors: Byron and Fielding; Thomas Mann and Cees Nooteboom; Wim Wenders and Alain Tanner; Simone de Beauvoir and Antonio Tabucchi; illusions and hallucinations in
Paul Buck is a poet, translator and writer, with interests in European film, art and music as well as literature.
FOREWORD by Jean-Pierre Faye ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS () PART ONE ARRIVALS 1. Introduction: Literary Snapshots 2. A Brief History of Lisbon: Era of Exploration; The Great Earthquake; Invasion and Dictatorship; European Nation; 3. Rio Tejo: First Impressions; Departure Point; Escape Point; Terra Firma; Sea of Straw; Cacilhas PART TWO THE CENTER 1. Baixa: Terreiro do Paco; Cafe Martinho da Arcada; The Grid () Rua Augusta () Rua dos Douradores () Rua da Madalena () Beginnings of Cinema () 2. Mercado da Ribeira: In the White City () The British Bar () Faces of Pessoa; Rua do Alecrim; The Texas Bar; Alto de Santa Catarina; Docks 3. Elevadors: Art Deco Suicides 4. Chiado & Bairro Alto: Pessoa; Cafe A Brasileira; Antonio Ribeiro, Camoes, and Eca de Queiros; Chiado; Bairro Alto; Foreign Considerations; Mario de Sa-Carneiro 5. Fado & Food: Amalia Rodrigues; Espionage and Intrigue; Delights for the Stomach 6. Tram 28: Cemiterio dos Prazeres; Tram 28; Estrela; From Bairro Alto to Baixa; Se Catedral; Around the Castelo de Sao Jorge; Feira da Ladra; Graca and Beyond 7. Castelo de Sao Jorge: Beyond the Walls; Palacio Belmonte; Pessoa and Crowley; Around the Castle 8. Alfama: The Miradouro and Light; The Warren of Dark Alleyways; Wenders and Madredeus; Oliveira and Portuguese Cinema; Casa dos Bicos; The Lux PART THREE THE EAST 1. Azulejos: Museu Nacional do Azulejo; Cemiterio do Alto de Sao Joao 2. Expo 98: Garo do Oriente PART FOUR THE NORTH 1. Rossio: Pictures of Poverty 2. Sintra: Palacio Nacional de Sintra; Luxury Accommodation; Palacio Nacional da Pena; Monserrate; Praia Grande 3. Avenida da Liberdade: Illusions; Morna and Cesaria Evora () Jazz and Carlos Paredes; Parque Mayer; Casa do Alentejo; The Metro 4. Jardim Botanico: Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara; Praca do Principe Real; Jardim Botanico 5. Gulbenkian: Paula Rego; Maria Helena Vieira da Silva; Amoreiras PART FIVE THE WEST 1. Janclas Verdes: Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga; The Temptation of St. Anthony; Rua das Janelas Verdes; Doca de Santo Amaro; Alcantara Mar 2. Belem: Torre de Belem; Mosteiro dos Jeronimos; Monumento dos Descobrimentos and Centro Cultural de Belem; Pasteis de Belem; Ponte 25 d