A guide to winter walking, climbing, scrambling right across the Moroccan High Atlas from Taroudant in the south-west to Midelt in the north-east, all accessible from Marrakech. The book outlines 50 routes on 40 peaks all over 3000m, including Jbel Toubkal in the central area, Ighil Mgoun in the east and Jbel Tinergwet in the west. Routes are suitable for experienced winter walkers, and are graded for remoteness, navigational difficulty and commitment. The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco have mountaineering potential galore. With 7 peaks over 4000m, and myriad other remote, little-climbed and poorly mapped summits, the region offers countless challenges for experienced winter climbers and scramblers looking for adventure. All of the routes are illustrated with colour sketch maps and photo-diagrams and also included are a basic English-Berber glossary and full information about the mountain refuges.
Des Clark is a qualified International Mountain Leader who has his permanent home in southern Morocco, close to the High Atlas mountains. Here he runs his own mountaineering and trekking business, guiding trips in winter, spring and autumn throughout the Atlas range. He has climbed extensively in Ireland, Scotland, Iceland, the Alps, Pyrenees and Andes, but reserves a special fondness for his High Atlas home.
Preface Introduction European exploration The Berbers Language Local customs and etiquette Building styles Plants and flowers Wildlife When to go Money Visas and permits Planning and maps Tourist information Getting to Morocco Getting around Morocco Accommodation Mules and porters Local guides What to take Health and safety Communication and navigation aids Respecting the environment Using this guide West of Tizi n-Test Taroudant Jbel Tinergwet 1 Jbel Tingerwet south-west ridge 2 Jbel Tingerwet west-north-west ridge Jbel Awlim 3 Jbel Awlim south-west ridge 4 Jbel Awlim south ridge Imaradene 5 Imaradene from the east 6 Imaradene from the south and west Awlim 7 Awlim north-east ridge Awrir n-Said 8 Awrir n-Said west ridge Additional routes Between Tizi n-Test and Tizi n-Tichka Marrakech Imlil Getting to the refuges from Imlil Traverses between Lepiney and Toubkal refuges 9 Toubkal refuges via Tizi Aguelzim 10 Toubkal refuges via Tizi n-Tadat 11 Toubkal refuges via Clochetons breche 12 Toubkal refuges via Tizi Melloul and Tizi Afella Tazaghart 13 Tazaghart via Tizi Melloul 14 Tazaghart Diagonal Couloir 15 Tazaghart Descent Couloir Biguinoussene 16 Biguinoussene from Tizi n-Tadat 17 Biguinoussene south ridge Afella 18 Afella via Tizi Melloul 19 Afella via Aougdal Bou Tiouna Akioud 20 Akioud north-north-west ridge Ras and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim 21 Ras and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim east ridge from Tizi n-Ouagane 22 Ras and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim north-east couloir 23 Ras and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim north-west ridge Jbel Toubkal 24 Jbel Toubkal south cwm south col 25 Jbel Toubkal north cwm north col 26 Jbel Toubkal north-east ridge 27 Jbel Toubkal south-west (Ouanoums) ridge 28 Jbel Toubkal south-east ridge Toubkal West 29 Toubkal West north-east ridge Imouzzer 30 Imouzzer north cwm north col south-west ridge Oukaimeden Angour 31 Angour north side ledge 32 Angour west ridge Anrhemer 33 Anrhemer west ridge Bou Iguenouane 34 Bou Iguenouane via Amazzer Meqqoren 35 Bou Iguenouane ridge traverse (north to west-south-west) Aksoual and Azrou n-Tamadot 36 Tizi Likemt to Tizi n-Tagharat traverse Additional routes East of Tizi n-Tichka Ait Bougammez Getting to Tarkeddit refuge 37 Tarkeddit refuge from Agouti 38 Tarkeddit refuge from Sebt Ayt Bou Wlli 39 Tarkeddit refuge from Tondout Ighil Mgoun and Mgoun West 40 Ighil Mgoun and Mgoun West from Tarkeddit refuge 41 Ighil Mgoun and Mgoun West north-east ridge (traverse) Oumassin and Aslad 42 Oumassin and Aslad from Tarkeddit refuge Aklim 43 Aklim from Tarkeddit refuge or Tatrarat Tarkeddit 44 Tarkeddit ridge - east to west traverse Zawat Ahansal Ouaougoulzat 45 Ouaougoulzat west summit 46 Tagafayt Azurki 47 Azurki north-east to south-west ridge traverse 48 Azurki north face couloirs Midelt Jbel Maasker 49 Jbel Maasker via Inifif Jbel Ayyachi, Sayd ou Addi and Ichichi n-Boukhlib 50 Jbel Ayyachi, Sayd ou Addi and Ichichi n-Boukhlib via the Cirque de Jaffar Additional routes APPENDIX A Further reading APPENDIX B Useful words and phrases APPENDIX C Route summary table APPENDIX D Refuge summary table