The basic concepts behind sizing systems currently used in the manufacture of ready-to-wear garments were originally developed in the 19th century. These systems are frequently based on outdated anthropometric data, they lack standard labelling, and they generally do not accommodate the wide variations of body sizes and proportions that exist in the population. However, major technological improvements have made new population data available worldwide, with the potential to affect the future of sizing in many ways. New developments in computer-aided design and sophisticated mathematical and statistical methods of categorizing different body shapes can also contribute to the development of more effective sizing systems. This important book provides a critical appreciation of the key technological and scientific developments in sizing and their application.
The first chapter in the book discusses the history of sizing systems and how this has affected the mass production of ready-to-wear clothing. Chapters two and three review methods for constructing new and adapting existing sizing systems, and the standardisation of national and international sizing systems. Marketing and fit models are reviewed in chapter four whilst chapter five presents an analysis of the grading process used to create size sets. Chapters six and seven discuss fit and sizing strategies in relation to function, and the communication of sizing. Mass customization and a discussion of material properties and their affect on sizing are addressed in chapters eight and nine. Military sizing and the aesthetics of sizing are detailed in chapters ten and eleven. The final chapter reviews the impact on sizing of production systems and specifications.
Written by an international team of contributors, this book is an essential reference to researchers, designers, students and manufacturers in the clothing and fashion industry.
Dr Susan P. Ashdown is the Human Ecology Helen G. Canoyer Professor in the Department of Fiber Science and Apparel Design at Cornell University, New York. She has conducted research in the field of sizing and fit for many years and is widely renowned for her research in apparel science and technology.
History of sizing systems and ready-to-wear; Creating sizing systems; Sizing standardisation; Sizing systems, fit models and target markets; Pattern grading and specifications; Function, fit and sizing; Communication of sizing and fit; Mass customisation and sizing; Materials and sizing; Sizing for the military; Sizing and clothing aesthetics; Sizing for the home sewing industry; Production systems, garment specifications and sizing.